Download Where the Magic Happens: How a Young Family Changed Their Lives and Sailed Around the World PDF

TitleWhere the Magic Happens: How a Young Family Changed Their Lives and Sailed Around the World
File Size5.4 MB
Total Pages352
Table of Contents
Our Route
Part One: Dreaming, Planning, and Making the Plan Happen
	2 Show Me the Money
		How Much Money Did We Need?
		Costing it Out
		Getting the Money Together—What We Started With
	3 Involving the Children
		My Own Traveling Experiences from Childhood Onward
		Nichola’s Traveling Experiences
		Family Feedback
		Introducing Our Children to the Idea of Traveling
		Sharing the Idea Beyond the Family to Make it Stronger
		Our Vision Book and a Family Painting
	4 Frustration, Breakthrough Thinking, and Building Energy
		When It’s Not Working, Go Back to the Drawing Board
		Stay Active—Keep Trying Different Things
		The Importance of Daily Routines and Consistency
		Brainstorming and Reinventing Previous Business Ideas
	5 Closing in on the Deadline
		Learning from the Experts
		A New Arrival
		Dad’s Cancer
		The Importance of Values in Achieving Your Goals
		Feedback Rather than Failure at Trovus
		Celebrating Success
	6 “The problem is…”—Addressing the Problems and Solving Them
		Assessing the Challenges
	7 Actually Going Ahead (or Not?)
		Time to Buy a Boat
		The Next Stage for Trovus
		Dealing with the Reactions of Others
		Getting Aretha Ready for Our Voyage
		Back Surgery
		Resourcefulness—A.K.A., If It’s Not Working, Try Something Different
		The Final Stretch—Preparation for the Big Voyage
Part Two: Sailing Around the World
	8 Settling in to Life at Sea
		First Overseas Landfall
		Airborne Back to the UK
		All Aboard, Finally
		Departure from Povoa, Portugal
	9 To the Canary Islands
		School on Board
		Making Friends at Sea—Nazares, Portugal
		Blogging Home—South from Cascais
		Across to the Canaries—Seasickness Takes Hold
		First Offshore Landfall
	10 Crossing the Atlantic
		Adapting to Life on Board
		Island Hopping—La Palma to Las Palmas
		Helping Hands
		Developing Routines at Sea
		Autopilot Failure
		Landfall in the Caribbean
	11 The Caribbean Sea to Panama
		A Different Christmas
		More Helping Hands
		Unexpected Time Out
		Joining the World ARC in Panama
		Values Off the Coast of Venezuela
		Heading for the San Blas Islands
		The Panama Canal
	12 Pacific—The Biggest Ocean in the World
		Galapagos and Beyond
		Going to School in the Kingdom of Sharks
		A Birthday, and the Stolen Dinghy
	13 The Mesmerizing Heart of the Pacific Ocean
		A Scare in the South Pacific
		Good News from Home—Closing the Chapter on My Business
		Bora Bora
		Back to Raiatea
		Suwarrow—A Deserted Pacific Island
		Reflecting on Our Relationship
	14 Power Plays in the Pacific
		Buying Time
		Plan A
		Hove-to for the Night
		Oyster World-Class Support
		Plan B
	15 Completing Our Pacific Crossing
		Offering Help
		Climbing a Volcano
		Halfway Around the World
		The Whitsunday Islands
		Sailing the Coast of Australia
	16 The Magical Indian Ocean
		School in Indonesia
		Christmas Island and the Kindness of Strangers
		The Magical Cocos (Keeling) Islands
		The Return of Max
		Cocos (Keeling) Islands to Mauritius
		Mauritius to South Africa
	17 Every Parent’s Worst Nightmare
		Rigging Failure
		Morning Brings Fresh Challenges
	18 South Africa to Brazil—Our Second Atlantic Crossing
		Cape Town in December
		Off the Namibian Coast
		Values Lessons—Food for Thought
		Daily Questions
		Continued Learning
		Poetry Readings
	19 Circumnavigating the World
		Landfall in Brazil
		Sailing the Venezuelan Coast
		Crossing Our Outbound Track
	20 Working Together as a Team
		Teachers All Around
		Cross-Cultural Experiences
		The Magic of Time Aboard
		No One Does This Alone
		Lasting Change
		What Next?
		Reintegration—Adjusting to Life on Land
		My Wish for You—Where the Magic Happens
Appendix 1: Resources
	By the Numbers
	Sailing Training
	Systems to Consider when Searching for an Offshore Boat
	Boat Preparation
	Boat Checks—Daily Routines
	Medical Considerations
	Communications at Sea
	Weather at Sea
	Life at Sea
	Ideas to Familiarize the Children with the Boat
	Paperwork and Certificates Needed
	The World ARC
Appendix 2: World ARC Boats 2015/16
Document Text Contents
Page 176

rain, passing villages under huge banyan trees. At one point, the truck slid
sideways off the concrete tracks—stuck. After we all climbed out the truck
managed to mount the tracks again—after much sliding and spinning. Steam—
burning hot if you ventured your hand too close—spewed from the earth at our
feet as we chased the truck up the road.
Next was a booming deep in our eardrums.
Once near, we walked up the mountain. The ground at our feet—black sand

with large lumps of basalt rock—resembled a lunar landscape. No vegetation
survives there.
The wind howled in a driving rain. As we neared the edge of the crater in the

dark we watched a gray sky change to orange and then red. Lava bubbled. Every
few minutes the volcano boomed—a huge rumble in our bones. We could feel
the power of the Earth speaking to us. The children loved every minute of this
incredible experience.
As we walked back down in the dark, drenched, I looked over at Simon, our

guide, barefoot in shorts and t-shirt. The reason for his question earlier became
blindingly obvious. I returned later with a pair of shoes that I hoped would fit.

Halfway Around the World
We left Vanuatu sailing fast at the front of the fleet in perfect conditions with
flat seas and steady winds for two days. That gave way as we rounded the
northern end of New Caledonia, the breeze filling in to 25+ knots with 10-foot
seas. Aretha became a bucking bronco—every 10 minutes or so a wave broke
over her, partially filling the cockpit. As we sailed through the roughest seas
we’d had for a while, thankfully Nichola was sleeping—the second best cure for
seasickness. (The first is sitting under an oak tree.) Thankfully the children also
We now had just under 700 miles until Hydrographers Passage—our entry

point through the Great Barrier Reef into Australian waters. It’s then another 100
miles inside the reef to reach Mackay. This would be our last Pacific crossing—
sailing to Australia. It seemed like only yesterday we felt the buzz of
approaching Shelter Bay on the Caribbean side of Panama anticipating our
transit under the Bridge of the Americas.
Our chartplotter showed the straight-line distance from where we were back to

Panama as 7,200 miles. By my estimates, we’d probably sailed close to 12,000
miles in the Pacific with all the different routes we’d taken.
Australia was the halfway point for the World ARC; some crews would leave

Page 177

the group there, but we were excited to be continuing on a route in company
around Australia to Darwin, up to Lombok in Indonesia, to Christmas Island, the
Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Mauritius, South Africa, St. Helena, Brazil, and then
back to Grenada and St. Lucia in the Caribbean.
As we approached Hydrographers Passage, we’d have to complete some

intricate navigation through the treacherous reefs. The charts were filled with
evocative names such as Wyatt Earp Reef, Bugatti Reef, and Deliverance Bank.
It was a fast, wet, bumpy passage. We hit 14.5 knots and decided to reduce sail

to slow the boat. Half an hour later—reefed—we hit 16.3 knots. That’s so fast
the whole boat vibrates. You are literally surfing down the back of the waves:
waves curl up behind you, some breaking, some not, and the stern lifts up, and
whoosh—you are off, cantering down the wave until you stop at the trough
where the speed stalls to 5 knots until you are picked up by the next wave. The
first time you look at the wave in disbelief, wondering how it’s going to break
over you. Once you get in the rhythm you flow with the waves, almost carving
your way through.
Squalls were everywhere—pounding rain with 30–40 knots of breeze. It was

cold too—the southern hemisphere winter. I was sitting in full foul-weather gear.
We heard Queensland had the worst snow for 30 years. So much for chasing the
Thankfully the kids were rock stars and I was able to sail the boat while they

did schoolwork with minimal guidance. They were also cooking, cleaning, and
helping with the sailing—proper boat kids now. After five days at sea they were
totally relaxed in the squally conditions.
As we neared Australia we were racing, hoping to secure our first podium

finish. Safety was always paramount but it was hard not to get sucked into the
competition when boats were all around. We were spurred on by regular position
reports, too.

The Whitsunday Islands
Captain’s Log, 20°09’S 149°03’E, August 10, 2015, Whitehaven Beach,

Whitsunday Islands, Australia

It still feels surreal.
When we first cooked up the idea of sailing round the world six years

ago, it always seemed a long way off, and I suspect to many people, half-
baked given that we didn’t even have a yacht three months before our
departure date.

Page 351

40 Three circumnavigators—enjoying life back in the Caribbean.

Page 352

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Plc First published in Great Britain 2018

Copyright © Caspar Craven, 2018

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