Download Rome for Dummies (ISBN - 076459950X) PDF

TitleRome for Dummies (ISBN - 076459950X)
TagsFor Dummies
File Size7.2 MB
Total Pages314
Table of Contents
                            Rome For Dummies 1st Edition
	About the Authors
	Authors’ Acknowledgments
	Contents at a Glance
	Maps at a Glance
	Table of Contents
		About This Book
		Conventions Used in This Book
		Foolish Assumptions
		How This Book Is Organized
		Icons Used in This Book
		Where to Go from Here
	Part I: Introducing Rome
		Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Rome
			The Best Museums
			The Best Churches
			The Best Ruins
			The Best Hotels
			The Best Restaurants
			The Best Buys in Rome
			The Best Daytime and Nighttime Outings
		Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Rome
			History 101: The Main Events
			Architecture: From Ruins to Rococo
			A Taste of Rome: Eating Locally
			Word to the Wise: The Local Language
			Background Check: Recommended Books and Movies
		Chapter 3: Deciding When to Go
			Revealing the Secrets of the Seasons
			Perusing a Calendar of Events
	Part II: Planning Your Trip to Rome
		Chapter 4: Managing Your Money
			Planning Your Budget
			Cutting Costs—but Not the Fun
			Handling Money
			Dealing with a Lost or Stolen Wallet
		Chapter 5: Getting to Rome
			Flying to Rome
			Arriving by Other Means
			Joining an Escorted Tour
			Choosing a Package Tour
		Chapter 6: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests
			Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families
			Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors
			Accessing Rome: Advice for Travelers with Disabilities
			Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gay and Lesbian Travelers
	Part III: Settling into Rome
		Chapter 7: Taking Care of the Remaining Details
			Getting a Passport
			Renting a Car—Not!
			Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance
			Staying Healthy When You Travel
			Staying Connected by Cellphone or E-Mail
			Keeping Up with Airline Security
		Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented
			Navigating Your Way through Passport Control and Customs
			Making Your Way to Your Hotel
			Figuring Out the Neighborhoods
			Getting Around Rome
		Chapter 9: Checking In at Rome’s Best Hotels
			Knowing Your Roman Hotels: What to Expect
			Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate
			Finding Alternative Accommodations: Apartments to Convents
			Arriving without a Reservation
			Rome’s Best Hotels
			Runner-Up Accommodations
			Index of Accommodations by Neighborhood
			Index of Accommodations by Price
		Dining and Snacking in Rome
			Getting the Dish on the Local Scene
			Trimming the Fat from Your Budget
			Rome’s Best Restaurants
			Dining and Snacking on the Go
			Index of Establishments by Neighborhood
			Index of Establishments by Cuisine
			Index of Establishments by Price
	Part IV: Exploring Rome
		Chapter 11: Discovering Rome’s Best Attractions
			Rome’s Top Sights
			The Vatican
			Finding More Cool Things to See and Do
			Seeing Rome by Guided Tour
		Chapter 12: Shopping the Local Stores
			Surveying the Scene
			Checking Out the Department Stores
			Going to Market
			Discovering the Best Shopping Neighborhoods
			Index of Stores by Merchandise
		Chapter 13: Following an Itinerary: Five Great Options
			Rome in Three Days
			Rome in Five Days
			Rome for Architecture Lovers
			Rome for Michelangelo Lovers
			Rome for Outdoors Lovers
		Chapter 14: Going Beyond Rome: Five Day Trips
			Ostia Antica: Rome’s Ancient Seaport
			Tivoli and Its Trio of Villas
			The Castelli Romani and Their Wines
			Nature Reserve of the Lago di Vico
	Part V: Living It Up after Dark: Rome’s Nightlife
		Chapter 15: Applauding the Cultural Scene
			Getting the Inside Scoop
			Finding Out What’s Playing and Getting Tickets
			Raising the Curtain on the Performing Arts
		Chapter 16: Hitting the Clubs and Bars
			Finding Out What’s on Where
			All That Jazz
			Historic Cafes
			Wine Bars and Pubs
			Dance Clubs
			Gay and Lesbian Bars
	Part VI: The Part of Tens
		Chapter 17: Non Capisco:The Top Ten Expressions You Need to Know
			Per Favore
			Buon Giorno and Buona Sera
			Quanto Costa?
			Che Cos’è?
			Non Capisco
		Chapter 18: Ten Great Roman Artists
			Pietro Cavallini
			Jacopo Torriti
			Antoniazzo Romano
			Giulio Pippi
			Cavalier d’Arpino
			Artemisia Gentileschi
			Plautilla Bricci
			Pietro Bracci
			Giuseppe Valadier
			Duilio Cambellotti
		Chapter 19: From Antique Prints to Cardinal Socks: The Best Roman Souvenirs
			Antique Prints
			Gold Jewelry
			Handmade Paper Goods
			Lace and Embroideries
			Murano Chandeliers and Sardinian Pottery
			Plaster Reproductions
			Religious Paraphernalia
	Appendix A: Quick Concierge
	Appendix B: Glossary of Italian Words and Phrases
Document Text Contents
Page 1

by Bruce Murphy and
Alessandra de Rosa





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even have names, but here are a few of our favorites: Pizza (Via del
Leoncino 28; % 06-6867757), Pizza a Taglio (Via della Frezza 40; % 06-
3227116), Pizza (Via della Penna 14; % 06-7234596), Pizza Rustica (Via del
Portico d’Ottavia, % 06-6879262; and Via dei Pastini 116, % 06-6782468),
Il Tempio del Buongustaio (Piazza del Risorgimento 50; % 06-6833709),
Pizza Al Taglio (Via Cavour 307; % 06-6784042), and Pizzabuona (Corso
Vittorio Emanuele II 165; % 06-6893229).

For a fast — and cheaper — lunch or dinner without giving up on the
pleasure of sitting down to a good table, Romans choose a pizzeria.
These are simple restaurants specializing in pizza — strictly individual-
size, round pizzas — and go from the more fancy (with tablecloths and
fashionable dining rooms) to the more rustic (a piece of paper on a
wooden table). They offer pizza with a variety of established toppings,
most of which have been defined by name in a longstanding tradition,
such as margherita (tomato and mozzarella), napoletana (tomato, moz-
zarella, and anchovies), capricciosa (tomato, mozzarella, mushrooms,
artichoke hearts, olives, ham, and an egg), and funghi (mushrooms,
tomato, and mozzarella). You’ll also find more-modern and sometimes
original combinations on the menu, such as rugola, bresaola, e parmi-
giano (fresh arugula and thin slices of cured beef and Parmesan cheese
on a simple tomato sauce), quattro formaggi (four kinds of cheese), broc-
coletti e salsicce (broccoli rabe and Italian sausages), and so on. In addi-
tion, pizzerie typically serve a choice of savory and delicious appetizers,
starting with bruschetta (toasted peasant-style bread topped with oil and
garlic and, on request, tomatoes, olives, ham, and so on), but also supplì
(rice balls stuffed with a small piece of mozzarella and deep fried), filetti
di baccalà (deep-fried salt cod), olive ascolane (large green olives stuffed
with meat and cheese and then deep fried), and fiori di zucca (zucchini
flowers stuffed with a small piece of anchovy and mozzarella and then
deep fried). If you like filetti di baccalà, the best in Rome are fried at
Filetti di Baccalà (Largo dei Librari 88, off Via dei Giubbonari at Campo
de’ Fiori; % 06-6864018; open Mon–Sat dinner only), a small restaurant
where you can take out or sit down — it also serves a few contorni and
desserts, but lines are epic.

For real Neapolitan pizza that has received the seal of honor from the
organization that guards the quality of Neapolitan pizza (a bit like D.O.C.
for wine), try Al Forno della Soffitta 1 (Via Piave 62; % 06-42011164)
and Al Forno della Soffitta 2 (Via dei Villini, 1/f; % 06-4404642; closed
Sun) or Pizza Re (Via di Ripetta 14; % 06-3211468; closed Sun). The
pizza is also excellent at the elegant Il Regno di Napoli (Via Romagna
22; % 06-4745025; closed Sat–Sun lunch only), which is also a full-scale
restaurant and therefore a bit more expensive, and at Pizza Forum (Via
San Giovanni in Laterano 34; % 06-7002515), with large and modern
dining rooms and fast service.

For Roman-style pizza (thinner than the Neapolitan version and less
bready but more savory), try Baffetto (Via del Governo Vecchio 114;

Chapter 10: Dining and Snacking in Rome 135

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% 06-6861617); Ivo (Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158; % 06-5817082;
closed Tues); or Opera (Via del Leone 23; % 06-68809927), which offers
30 types of pizza.

Really good coffee
Even if you’re on the go, the proper way to finish a meal is with a good
coffee — at least that’s what Romans believe. Note, however, that many
smaller trattorie and pizzerias don’t make coffee. What better reason
to remove to a famous coffee shop after your meal? If you’re a coffee
aficionado, you should not miss the Caffè Sant’Eustachio (Piazza
Sant’Eustachio 82; % 06-68802048; Bus: Minibus 116), a traditional
Italian bar that has been serving Rome’s best espresso since 1938, made
with water still carried into the city on the Ancient Roman aqueduct.
Another excellent temple of coffee is Tazza d’Oro, just by the Pantheon
(% 06-6789792; Bus: Minibus 116 to Pantheon); its coffee is very good,
and you haven’t lived until you’ve tried its granita di caffè (a concoction
of frozen espresso served with whipped cream).

Snack bars, tavola calda, and rosticcerie
A delicate nuance differentiates each of these typical Roman fast-food
eateries. They correspond to your local diner or deli — if not in look and
kind of food served, at least in purpose. This is where you can have a
simple lunch at a fraction of the price you would pay in a restaurant and
where harrassed working parents and singles who don’t feel like cook-
ing come for takeout in the evening. They present the food behind glass
counters and sell it by weight or by the piece. Sometimes, they’re organ-
ized as cafeterias, and you take your food on a tray to a sitting place;
others have only standing room at a counter and are mostly takeout.
Snack bars usually have fewer offerings than a tavola calda, and rostic-
cerie focus on roasted chickens and pizza, although often with an array
of side dishes. Some are obviously better than others, and although in
the simplest snack bar, you’ll find little more than sandwiches, in the
best tavola calda, you’ll have an ample choice of tasty and well-prepared
hot and cold dishes, including pasta, secondi, and contorni — in short,
all you need for a full meal. Always look carefully at the food before
ordering to check that it isn’t dried out; in mediocre places, you’ll be
much worse off than at the local bar, where sandwiches are usually
freshly prepared. The clientele will also help you: Crowds at mealtime
(especially Romans) are an excellent sign.

Midway between a snack bar and a restaurant, Grillpoint (Piazzale di
Porta Pia 122; % 06-44236435; open daily noon to 2:30 p.m.) provides
an elegant dining room and a wide choice of well-prepared dishes,
including pizza. Da Maciste al Salario, Pizza, Vino e Cucina (Via Salaria
179/a, at Via Metauro; % 06-8848267; closed Mon dinner and Sun lunch)
serves its excellent food cafeteria style and provides ample seating.
There is a long line for lunch, and if you arrive too late, the best will be
gone. In il centro, there’s the crowded Taverna del Campo snack stop
with crostini, panini, and beer (Campo de’ Fiori 16; % 06-6874402).

Part III: Settling into Rome 136

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