Download McCall - Dressmaking Made Easy - 1939 PDF

TitleMcCall - Dressmaking Made Easy - 1939
File Size15.7 MB
Total Pages91
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Document Text Contents
Page 2

ALBERT R. MANN

LIBRARY

New York State Colleges

of

Agriculture and Home Economics

at

Cornell University

^^^^^^^m

â– H

^^^m

Page 45

TUCKING

PLAIN TUCKING

Make a cardboard gage, cutting in a notch

to show the width of the tuck and width of

space between the tucks.

To make tuck, fold material, right side

out, using the gage as a guide; then make

tuck with a fine running stitch.

SCALLOPED TUCKING

Used as decorative tucking.

Make the tuck as described above, but

at even intervals, take 2 stitches over the

tucks, drawing stitches close to form scal-

lops.

CROSS TUCKING

Used as trimming in blouses, lingerie, or

children's garments.

Cross tucking should be done before, cut-

ting out the garment.

Make all tucks running in one direction

and press to one side, before making the

cross tucks.

CORDED TUCKING

Mark position for tuck; then place material

over cord, right side out, and sew with a

fine running stitch close to cord. This can

also be stitched by machine with a cording

attachment.

43

Page 46

BIAS BINDING

CUTTING AND JOINING

BIAS STRIPS

For a true bias, fold material so that the

crosswise thread meets the lengthwise

thread or selvedge.

Mark and cut strips the desired width.

If necessary, join bias strips either cross-

wise to crosswise edge, or lengthwise to

lengthwise thread as illustrated. Press

seams open.

BIAS BINDING (SINGLE)

Used to trim and finish a raw edge.

Cut bias strip twice the width of the

finished binding, plus seam allowance on

each edge. Cut seam allowance away on

edge to fee bound.

Sew one edge of binding to edge of gar-

ment, right siaes together; then roll binding

to inside, turn under seam allowance and

hem to position.

BIAS BINDING (DOUBLE)

Used mainly for sheer or thin materials.

Cut bias strip 4 times the width of the

finished binding, plus seam allowance on

each edge.

Fold strip through center and press. Sew

raw edges of binding to edge of garment,

right sides together; then roll binding to in-

side and hem folded edge to position.

BINDING SCALLOPED EDGE

1. For sheer materials, cut bias strip for a

double binding, allowing only %" for

each seam edge.

Sew edges of binding to scalloped edge,

right sides together, easing in binding

slightly at rounded part of scallops, and

stretching at corners.

2. Roll binding to the inside, and hem fold-

ed edge to position, forming pleat at

each corner.

Use a single binding for heavier ma-

terials.

44

Page 90

INDEX

POCKETS

Pocket with bound opening 68

Tailored pocket with bound opening 69

Pocket with welt 70

Pocket with diagonal welt 71

Pocket with flap 72

PRESSING 34, 35

SEAM FINISHINGS

Bound seam edges 36

Catch-stitched seam 38

Easing in fulness 41

Fagoted seam 39

Felled French seam 37

Flatfell seam 37

French seam 37

Hem felled seam 37

Hemstitched gathered seam 40

Hemstitched seam 39

Hemstitiched seam edges 39

Joining crossed seams 41

Joining interlining seam 41

Lapped gathered seam 40

Lapped seam 38

Overcast seam edges 36

Pinked seam 36

Rolled seam edges 38

Slash gathers 40

Slashing curved seam edges 41

Slot seam 39

Tucked seam 38

Turned in seam edges 36

SHIRRING 31

SIZE (OBTAINING CORRECT SIZE

PATTERN) 10

SLEEVE

Setting sleeve into armhole 52

Sleeve openings 54, 56

Sleeve padding 53, 86

Sleeve stiffening 53

STITCHES (CONSTRUCTIVE STITCHES]

Backstitching 3

Blanket stitch 3

Blind hemming 3

Buttonhole stitch 3

Catch-stitching hem 3

Combination stitch 3

Diagonal basting 3

Dressmakers' basting 2

Even basting 2

Gathering 3

Gauging 3

Half backstitching 31

Hemming 3;

Overcasting 3J

Overhanding 3(

Running stitch 2^

Shirring 3|

Slipstitching 21

Uneven basting 2?

Whipping 33

TACKS

Arrowhead tack 80

Bar-tack 80

Crow's foot tack 80

French tack 75

Tailor's tacks 26, 27, 28

TAILORED GARMENT WITH

NOTCH COLLAR 83

TAILOR'S TACKS 26, 27, 28

TUCKING

Corded tucking 43

Cross tucking 43

Plain tucking 43

Scalloped tucking 43

UNDERFACINGS (Bias) 45

(Shaped) 45

UNLINED COAT 86

88

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